I don't know why it gives me so much pleasure to try to surf, even when it is a horrible failure in any terms except for the entertainment value I must provide to other folks on the beach.
The waves were 2 to 4 feet with an occasional 7 footer. My skilled friends got quite an experience getting endos and tumbled by the larger stuff farther out. I watched them go out and come back in. It amazed me that they held their breth for so long and still rolled up. I was surprised that they were not stripped out of their boats, but they handled it and made it look easy.
However, I could not get out through the white water. The period was 3.5 seconds and I always have trouble in short period waves.
I think that this time one problem was that the expedition does not turn well at all, so it is impossible to correct for the next wave, if the first one knocks you off course. I think my endurance and fitness was good, but my skills are lacking, I brought the wrong boat and I just suck at this kayaking thing. I seem to have the most fun when I eat it. This time I actually ate sand.
Most times I practice surfing I try to do new things so that I capsize at least four time in the day. This time I capsized seven times without even surfing.
Later as we walked the beach the wave subsided and we saw a teen in a short rec sit on top trying again and again to make it out. We hooted and cheered when he finally made it.
The bruises are interesting colors but pretty mild and I cannot wait for another go at it this Saturday!
Enjoying in the sea is the most enjoyable thing that we can do... Although it is dangerous but once learn the tricks then it is a fun... Thanks for sharing your experience n also cheering up that teenager...
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